Surfboard riding is a very technical art which is developing, all the time. This cannot be stressed enough. Many surfers themselves do not realise how very technical the sport is. The average spectator cannot remotely imagine all that there is in surfing.
This has been said in this column before but it is felt that, by repetition, it will be driven home. The surfer will realise that there is more to surfing that merely riding a wave and hoping that he does not fall off; and the spectator will see just why the surfer manoeuvres as he does.
However, surfing is so technical and so new that it is impossible to say categorically that something is right or wrong. Surfing is developing all the time. Surfers are learning all the time. We can only say what we think is right from our own experience and from that of others.
American Phil Edwards is much quoted in this column. This is because he is regarded as the greatest authority on surfing in the world. Recently voted the best surfer in the world and recognised as the most competent contest judge. Edwards has himself evolved the manoeuvres used by most surfers today.
GENIUS
Phil Edwards was one of the first modern surfers.
The Natal Mercury, August 13, 1964
Trimming is the Secret
He has been surfing for about 18 years.... since he was eight years old. Modest and publicity-shunning, he iscopied by surfers all over the world. His reputation has been built by his fellow surfers. Maxie Wetteland, who met him and went on a surfing safari with him in Australia, says; "To me he is a surfing genius."
For a long time the func-tional style of Phil Edwards was not fully appreciated. His natural smooth riding made it look as if he was doing nothing really good on the wave. Other riders who rode more spectacularly were classed above him. And all the time it was Edwards making it look easy, who was getting the most out of the wave.
But now his mastery is recognised and his functional style is regarded by most people as being the correct way to surf. All international contests are now run on functional lines. The truly functional surfer is the one who can "trim" his board properly. And to do this he must move his board bast and control it. This involves quick thinking and perfect timing with the changing movements of the wave. And this leaves little time for useless motions so characteristic of the "expressive" surfer.
ESSENCE
The essence of func-tional surfing is "trim-ming". Phil Edwards says that "trimming" is one of the most important aspects of surfing. But what exactly is "trimming"? Edwards
defines it as “the proper positioning of the weight on the board and the “fitting of the board in the wave.”
He goes on to say that “a good surfer who can trim his board properly will be able to make almost twice the speed of the novice, enabling him to change his position in the wave more easily.”
What all this means is that “trimming” involves almost everything in surfing. Every turn, every “cut-back”, every stance on the board is done for a reason – to “trim” the board.Trimming” is so important and so complex that there is insufficient space this week to explain it fully. Next week's column will be a continuation.
CONTROL
The truly functional surfer is the one who can “trim” his board properly. And to do this he must move his board bast and control it. This involves quick thinking and perfect timing with the changing movements of the wave. And this leaves little time for useless motions so characteristic of the “expressive” surfer.
Trimming” is so important and so complex that there is insufficient space this week to explain it fully. Next week's column will be a continuation.
Using a parallel stance George Thompson(left), of Durban, “trims” his board on a small wave at Addington Beach. The parallel stance is essential to “trim” the board at times but very few Durban surfers make use of it.
“Trimming” involves everything in surfing. It is accomplished by the positioning of the weight on the board, and by the positioning of the board on the wave. “Parallel stance”, “toes on the nose”, “stalling”, “cut-backs” and “turns” - they are all done with the object of keeping the board in perfect “trim.”
The “expressive” and “aggresive” surfers are not concerned with “trimming.” It is only the truly “functional” rider who concentrates on it.
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